EGYPT, GIFT OF THE NILE
By Jamie Ross

On the edge of the expansive city of Cairo, on the dusty Giza plateau, the pyramids of Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, Egypt's monuments to eternity, rise above the desert sands. Though I had seen photos and films of these magnificent structures, the sight of the pyramids still takes my breath away, which of course has always been their purpose.

The pyramids of Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure rise
above the desert sands on the Giza Plateau.

This was my day of arrival in this ancient land, and the pyramids were not the first thing to leave me breathless – that honour belonged to Cairo traffic, another wonder to behold. Cairo streets at first glance appear to be utter chaos; there doesn't appear to be any designated lanes, as cars, buses, motorcycles (often carrying a family of four and all their provisions) and trucks weave an interesting tapestry. All the while pedestrians walk through the tangle without care, and horns present themselves as the music of the city. The result is as beautiful as it is terrifying.

My Egyptian journey will take me from Cairo, with its pyramids, Sphynx, Islamic mosques and the fascinating Egyptian Museum with its more than 100,000 antiquities from every period of ancient Egyptian history, to the vibrant city of Luxor. Once known as Thebes, this ancient city was the capital of Egypt during the period of the Middle and New Kingdoms. With the temples and palaces at Karnak and Luxor, and the necropolises of the Valley of the Kings, the ancient burial ground of many of Egypt's New Kingdom rulers, and the Valley of the Queens, where beneath the sheer, stark cliffs of Deir el Bahri the mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut reveals one of the most extraordinary reigns in Egyptian history, Luxor is a striking testimony to Egyptian civilization at its height.

The lush banks of the Nile can be seen from a hot air balloon above Luxor.

From Luxor I have booked passage on Scenic's Sanctuary Sunboat III, for the 228 kilometre trip south to Aswan. The Nile is the unifying thread that runs throughout Egyptian history, culture and politics, and travelling the Nile is the best way to feel the pulse of the country. In the fifth century B.C., Greek historian Herodotus described Egypt as the gift of the River Nile, because the Egyptian civilization depended on the resources of the great river. In 47 BC Julius Caesar sailed up the Nile with his love Cleopatra, and the journey has become a favourite of the curious and romantic ever since.

Cruise the Nile in luxury on Scenic's Sanctuary Sunboat III.

The upper sun deck of our 197 foot river yacht is known as “Cleopatra's Oasis” with its swimming pool, shaded sanctuaries and lounge. I love to hide away here with a cold Sakara Gold in hand, watching life on the Nile drift past. We sail alongside villages, cities and dazzling ancient monuments. Along the shore shepherds ride burrows while herding cattle and goats, people fish in tiny row boats with two by fours for oars, hawkers paddle alongside our vessel to sell their wares, camels shelter beneath sweeping trees and women wash clothes while children splash about in the shallows. The Nile is in no hurry. The scene seems unchanged over thousands of years. As dusk settles over the still river waters, haunting calls to prayer from mosques on both shores break the silence. It is a sublime experience.

Nile cruisers ply the lush, foliage-fringed river and offer the best way to visit the temples and small villages. We docked at a bend in the river and took a short excursion through the villages chaotic marketplace to the Temple of Kom Ombo, a monument that commemorates two gods, the falcon-headed Horus the sky god and Sobek the crocodile god . Many still have intact hieroglyphics adorning their walls, providing a fascinating insight into Egyptian culture.

The felucca is a traditional Egyptian wooden boat with a canvas sail.

Our four night cruise ends in Aswan, Egypt's southernmost city and once the crossroads of the ancient caravan routes. Here is the Aswan High Dam, built in the 1960's to control the unpredictability of the great river. Also worth a visit is the Temple of Philae and the Old Cataract Hotel where Agatha Christie penned “Death on the Nile.” I have a room booked in the iconic riverside resort and take a tour through its historic corridors, visiting Christie's suite, her antique writing desk and the luxurious rooms favoured by Winston Churchill. I feel like I've stepped back in time – into the golden age of travel. It is a beautiful view across to Elephantine Island where feluccas and shallow-drought motor launches crowd the narrow passages of the Nile.

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel – it was moved from its original location
on the banks of the Nile to the shores of Lake Nasser
after the construction of Aswan's High Dam.

Our last stop is the temple of Abu Simbel 300 km south of Aswan. A short flight takes us to the shores of Lake Nasser. For thousands of years, Ramses II's Great Temple sat along the banks of the Nile in Nubian lands, then when the High Dam created the artificial lake and threatened to drown this magnificent monument, UNESCO rushed to the rescue, disassembling the temple stone by stone and moving it to high ground. The rescue mission to four years – the result is another site to behold.

The old and the new live side by side here, a contemporary
population whose past is tightly linked to its economic future.

Egypt not only capitalizes on its culture and history, it revels in it. The old and the new live side by side here, a physical and spiritual culture of pharaohs and kings, and a contemporary population whose past is tightly linked to its economic future.

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IF YOU GO

The When: Tourism in Egypt has suffered the ebbs and flows of troubled times; terrorism, political unease and the revolution of 2011. The situation was slowly righting itself and the tourists returning when the Covid-19 pandemic hit. Egypt will bounce back and travellers will return, and perhaps when those doors open again the time for a visit will be best, the magnificent temples and monuments might have a sense of calm and quiet. Plan a trip in the winter months when temperatures are quite pleasant. A passport and VISA, which can be obtained online beforehand, are required.

The How : To achieve the best experience in a safe manner, it is best to book with a tour company. I booked with Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours. Their itinerary, lodging and meals were first class. My tour director, Egyptologist Caroline Fayez, was personable, passionate and full of knowledge. The group size was only 24 and their smaller Sanctuary Sunboat III reached places that the larger river cruise ships could not access.

Contact: www.scenic.ca

PHOTOS by Jamie Ross